Our team has tried and tested a lot of products from many brands such as Aqara, SKYLINK, BOND, Ademco, sense, Unknown, YoLink, eco4life, Linkind, tolviviov, EMPORIA ENERGY, Incipio. Below are our 10 top favorites for the best home automation system that you may be interested in.
10 Best Home Automation System 2022 short list
Top 10 Best Home Automation System for 2022 Price and Features Comparison
Hubitat Elevation Home Automation Hub (Model C-7) Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, Zigbee, Z-Wave, Lutron (Requires Lutron Smart Bridge Pro)
$109.95 in stock
|Item Weight||7.4 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||2.95 x 2.95 x 0.67 inches|
|Item model number||HC5|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
- Speed: Automations are processed locally on the hub for fast, reliable home automation
- Compatibility: Compatible with most Zigbee, Z-Wave, LAN, Google Home, Alexa and Lutron devices (Lutron requires Lutron SmartBridge Pro). Please check for compatibility with your devices before...
8x16 8x8 HDR 18GBPS HDbaseT 4K Matrix SWITCHER 16x16 with 8 Receivers HDMI 2.0a 2.0 CAT6 CAT5e HDMI HDCP2.2 Routing SPDIF Audio CONTROL4 Savant Home Automation
|Package Dimensions||19.5 x 18 x 7 inches|
|Item Weight||25.8 pounds|
|Best Sellers Rank||#1,726 in Audio & Video Selector Boxes|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Date First Available||November 18, 2017|
|Manufacturer||No Hassle AV International|
- 8 HDbaseT Receivers and 8 Audio Extraction devices are included
- 18GBPS HDR 4K 60hz YUV444. Supports all forms of surround sound including Dolby Atmos, Dolby Surround, 5.1 - 7.1 - 11.1 - 5.2 - 7.2 - 11.2, 2 Channel Stereo
- iOS & Android App!! Includes 8 HDbaseT PoC...
SKYLINK SK-250 Deluxe Connected Wireless Security Alarm Automation System with Camera Compatible with iOS, Android, Echo Alexa, Google Home and IFTTT and No Monthly Fees, 1 Count (Pack of 1), White
$179.99 in stock
|Item Weight||1.3 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||15.25 x 4 x 5 inches|
|Item model number||SK-250|
|Batteries||4 Nonstandard Battery batteries required. (included)|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Size||1 Count (Pack of 1)|
|Style||Starter Kit Plus|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Mounting Type||Surface Mount|
|Special Features||Motion Sensor|
|Usage||Indoor use only|
|Included Components||Internet Hub HU-100 X 1Door/Window Sensor WD-MT X 2Motion sensor PS-MT X 2Keychain Remote MK-MT X 1Wireless Indoor Camera WC-300PH X 1Power Adapter X 2Ethernet Cable X 2Mounting Accessories|
|Battery Cell Type||Alkaline|
|Warranty Description||1 Year|
- Easy installation and do-it-yourself (DIY) with No Monthly Fees. Arm/disarm the system and monitor the sensor status with the SkylinkNet Smartphone App. Also, with the Keychain Transmitter (MK-MT) or Keypad (KN-MT) sold separately
- Multiple arming features. Arm away while leaving...
Aqara M1S Smart Hub, Wireless Smart Home Bridge for Alarm System (2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Required), Home Automation, Remote Monitor and Control, Supports Alexa, Google Assistant, Apple HomeKit and IFTTT
$49.99 in stock
|Item Dimensions LxWxH||3.15 x 3.15 x 1.63 inches|
|Included Components||M1S Hub, Manual Book|
|Unit Count||1 Count|
|Manufacturer||Lumi United Technology Co., Ltd.|
|Item Weight||6.4 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||3.15 x 3.15 x 1.63 inches|
|Item model number||M1S|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Mounting Type||Plug-In Mount|
- Note: The Aqara Hub M1S requires a secured 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network connection. One Aqara Hub M1S can connect up to 128 Aqara devices (Aqara Zigbee repeaters required). Thanks to the latest Zigbee 3.0 protocol, the M1S supports all existing and latest Aqara devices based on the fastest, most...
Aqara Smart Hub M2 (2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Required), Smart Home Bridge for Alarm System, IR Remote Control, Home Automation, Supports Alexa, Google Assistant, Apple HomeKit and IFTTT
|Manufacturer||Lumi United Technology Co., Ltd.|
|Item Weight||8.4 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||3.94 x 3.94 x 1.12 inches|
|Item model number||HM2-G01|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
- ✽NOTES: Aqara Hub M2 requires a secured 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network connection. One Aqara Hub M2 can connect up to 128 Aqara devices (Zigbee repeaters required). Zigbee 3.0 Support, supports all the latest Aqara devices based on the fastest, most stable, and energy-efficient...
Aqara Motion Sensor, REQUIRES AQARA HUB, Zigbee Connection, for Alarm System and Smart Home Automation, Broad Detection Range, Compatible with Apple HomeKit, Alexa, Works With IFTTT
|Power Source||Corded Electric|
|Item Weight||0.04 Pounds|
|Maximum Range||22 Feet|
|Number of Batteries||1 Lithium Metal batteries required. (included)|
|Manufacturer||Lumi United Technology Co., Ltd.|
|Item Weight||0.64 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||1.18 x 1.18 x 1.3 inches|
|Item model number||RTCGQ11LM|
|Batteries||1 Lithium Metal batteries required. (included)|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Included Components||Aqara Motion Sensor, Quick Start Guide, Customer Letter, Mount with Adjustable Grip, Sticker|
|Battery Cell Type||Lithium Metal|
|Warranty Description||1 year|
- ✽【NOTES】An Aqara Hub is required and sold separately. Requires a secured 2. 4 gigahertz WiFi network connection. The Aqara M2 or M1S Hub can connect up to 128 devices(*use of a repeater such as the Aqara Smart Plug or Aqara Smart Wall Switch(With Neutral) is required).
BroadLink RM4 Mini IR Universal Remote Control, Smart Home Automation Wi-Fi Infrared Blaster for TV Air Conditioner STB Audio, Works with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT
|Product Dimensions||1.89 x 1.89 x 1.69 inches|
|Item Weight||3.52 ounces|
|Item model number||RM4 MINI|
|Best Sellers Rank||#9,614 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement) #7 in Home Automation Hubs & Controllers|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Date First Available||November 5, 2019|
|Manufacturer||Hangzhou BroadLink Technology Co., Ltd.|
|Country of Origin||China|
- HIGH COMPATIBILITY - Support 50,000+ IR controlled devices such as TV, STB, Air conditioner, Fan, Video Recorder, DVD and more. The cloud is continuously updating supported devices library, so your RM4 mini is always compatible with newer devices. Option to program your devices and learn...
Broadlink RM4 pro Smart IR/RF Remote Control Hub with Sensor Cable-WiFi IR/RF Blaster for Smart Home Automation, TV, Curtain, Shades Remote, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, IFTTT (RM4 pro S)
|Manufacturer||Hangzhou BroadLink Technology Co., Ltd.|
|Part Number||RM4 pro|
|Item Weight||3.34 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||3.35 x 3.35 x 1.22 inches|
|Country of Origin||China|
|Item model number||RM4 pro S|
|Size||RM4 pro+Sensor Cable|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Special Features||Easy to Install|
- 【HIGH COMPATIBILITY】: BroadLink Wi-Fi Hub RM4 pro support RF (315MHz & 433MHz) controlled devices such as smart motorized electric curtains/blinds/shades motor, projector and light switch; Support 50,000+ IR controlled devices with full integration such as TV, STB, Air conditioner,...
Brilliant Smart Home Control (4-Switch Panel) — Alexa Built-In & Compatible with Ring, Sonos, Hue, Google Nest, Wemo, SmartThings, Apple HomeKit — In-Wall Touchscreen Control for Lights, Music, & More
|Item Weight||8 ounces|
|Package Dimensions||9.49 x 6.89 x 2.44 inches|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Mounting Type||Panel Mount|
|Switch Style||Touch Switch|
- EASY SMART HOME CONTROL FOR EVERYONE: Brilliant touchscreen panels with built-in Alexa make it easy for everyone at home to control popular smart devices, lighting, cameras, locks, thermostats, intercom, scenes and more by simply replacing a light switch
- REPLACES A 4-GANG LIGHT...
Honeywell Lynx Touch L5210 Home Automation/Security Alarm Kit with WiFi and Zwave Module
|Product Dimensions||12.4 x 12.1 x 3.8 inches|
|Item Weight||4.19 pounds|
|Item model number||4331022426|
|Best Sellers Rank||#3,002 in Home Security Systems|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Date First Available||April 9, 2016|
- Kit Includes LYNX Touch 5210 Control Panel with Transformer and Battery Backup (3) 5815 Slim Door/Window Transmitters, (1) 5834-4 Four-button Wireless Keyfob & (1) 5800PIR-RES Wireless Motion Detector
- Integrated Z-Wave Support via L5100-ZWAVE Z-Wave Control Module (Included)...
How To Buy The Best Home Automation System In 2022
A best home automation system is indeed among the most essential appliances. However, it’s hard to find the best home automation system that suits your needs. To help you find a suitable product, we’ve compiled a list of vital features to look for and a few tips on what to avoid when buying.
So without further ado, let’s jump right in and find out how to shop for the best home automation system.
You should never sacrifice quality if durability and performance are your priorities. How does the best home automation systems you’re considering look? Can you find any defects? Are they made with high-quality materials, or are they cheaply made? Do they have a solid warranty that covers all parts and labor? You should be looking for all these things. This will help you avoid choosing a poorly made product or simply not as good as it could be.
In addition to brands, it is vital that you take into account your budget before deciding on the best home automation system.
There is a variety of best home automation system on the market sold at many different prices. Thus, it is not challenging for you to shop for a machine that suits your budget.
However, note that if money is not your problem, don’t hesitate to invest in a high-end best home automation system. In fact, the more money you can pay for a best home automation system, the more unique and valuable features you can benefit from it.
3. Ease of use
You need to find out if the best home automation system is worth the price. If you still have some difficulties operating it after reading the user manual, then there is a problem.
The Home Automation System Tips and Advice
FAQ for Home Automation System In 2022
We are all about product reviews. We do not sell any items.
The seller is responsible for the warranty of the products you buy. If you encounter any problems with your purchased product, please visit “here.”
Find best price for shopping now!
- Emtek Assa Abloy Smart Lock 2023, According To Our Expert
- 16 smart lock for metal gate you can buy in 2023
- 14 champagne gold christmas tree passed our test 2023
- 16 twin folding bed passed our test 2023
- 13 batman christmas inflatable passed our test 2023
- The executive reclining office chair for 2023
- Teal Recliner Chair of 2023, According To Our Test
- Antique Oak Sideboard in 2023, Tested In Our Lab
- 22 5 ft white christmas tree we tested in 2023
- 17 smart locks for patio doors you can buy in 2023
- 23 Seer Heat Pump 2023: Reviews, Buying Guides & Top Picks
- Sunblazer 128 000 Btu Heat Pump Reviews to buy 2023 – Wild River Review
- Top Kwikset 916 Contemporary Z-wave Smart Lock (2023 Review)
- The Rattan Sideboard for 2023 – Our Expert
- Indoor Spiral Christmas Tree to buy 2023 – Wild River Review
If you are a newbie to Lynx Touch, you will need some computer know-how and the Installation and Setup Guide. The Installation and Setup Guide gives more explanations, and a copy is available online. If you are a computer geek, you should be fine with this DIY project. Note that if you want remote monitoring, you will need to pay about $10 per month for self-monitoring service using the WIFI module as communicator. If you are using this unit as a noise maker without remote monitoring, then you don’t have to pay for a monthly service. If you have a landline, you can hook the landline to this unit, and program up to two telephone numbers to call out through the Follow Me feature. The alarm will call out when a fault is triggered. There are how-to videos on line if you need help. If Honeywell would add e-mail capability directly to this unit without the need for a monthly service charge, I would give this unit 5 stars.Update: Instead of a landline which costs about $30 per month, I am using a AT&T Wireless Phone Base ZTE WF720 (to provide the landline over GSM) and H2O Wireless $10 per 90 days plan. The WF720 has a backup battery providing up to 3.5 hours talk and 36 hours standby, GSM (two bands), 3G. That means you can use the Follow Me feature through the WF720 for about $3 per month.Note: The WF720 will not carry modem signals, so you cannot use the WF720 for monitoring by an alarm company. I’m using the ZTE WF720 for the voice call via the Follow Me feature. I self monitor, I do not use a professional alarm company. The Follow Me feature calls me and my backup when there’s an alarm.Note: If you need monitoring by professional central office, I recommend getting the newest GSM module GSMVLP5-4G (currently at 4G). Traditional landline and cable risk getting cut by burglars.Note: AT&T will sunset their 3G network by 12/31/2021. Your WF720 is 3G and will stop functioning by that time. Migrate to MF279 or IFWA-40 (4G) before then to continue Follow-Me feature.
This is an extremely reliable alarm system for a fraction of the cost of having someone install it for me. Installation isn’t the most Straightforward process but there are tons of videos on the internet that help with it. I love that I can easily expand and add things like a gsm card to connect to a cell network. I set mine up with a Wi-Fi card and a z wave card. Easy enough and I can do cool things with it. For example, when I arm my system it automatically turns off the lights, vice versa when I disarm it. It’s also easy and cheap to have someone monitor it. The cheapest option for monitoring is 15 dollars a month thru alarm grid. They only monitor but they will call the police if the alarm goes off. I have the 10 dollar a month option, and it just sends me a text if the alarm goes off while I’m gone. Love the system and I have so much room to expand. Don’t lock yourself into an expensive contract for a inferior product. Buy some extra Honeywell sensors. I really love the recessed door sensors, they are hidden so you don’t have to have double sided tape holding a big white box on your door.
I have only had the system installed for about 48 hours, but have been very please with it’s functionality and ease of set up. The system cam with the hub, 2 door sensors, 2 motion detector, camera and key fob. The instructions for the hub were very simple and concise. To make life so much easier, set the hub and all accessories up from the app, which I used iOS. Be sure to write down your passwords for the hub and the app for future reference. Next were the 2 motion sensors. They are sensitive, so think about where you want them, especially if you have pets. My original location for one of the sensors was about 25 feet from my couch and it triggered whenever I or my dog sat on the couch. Moved it to another location, problem solved and it covers the area I wanted to target. Motion sensor 2 was just as easy and covers a large open space in my garage without random triggers of the alarm. Both went in with double sided tape, but I can foresee needing to replace that pretty quickly. To open the motion sensors, I used a flat head screwdriver, which is okay, but it dinged up the plastic, so a coin might be better. Door sensors went in quickly using just double sided tape. The are also sensitive and work quickly to trigger. All four of these sensors where installed and activated with the app in about 10 minutes. I at first thought the camera had to be hard wired to the internet to work, wrong. You have to hard wire it to program it, but then it works via WiFi. Using the app, set up took less then 5 minutes. Now deciding where to put it, that took longer, but once in it gives you good coverage of the area you want to view – for me, I can view my entire living room, which catches the front entry door, garage entry door and the entry to my kitchen – in total about 45 degree angle. My only issue with the camera is the night vision is grainy and slow to respond if you want to pan the room. If you need to get a still of someone in your house it will work, but it is not great. You can also video, which is also hard to see, but it will work. Day time vision is awesome!! The mike and speaker also work well as I tested them when a friend came to walk my dog. A person who has been in my house a hundred times, did not see the camera until I started talking to her. The speaker is clear, as I heard every word she said to the dog when she entered.The SkyNet app is pretty easy to use and download, which for a someone not very techy is fantastic!! Once it is on the phone, activating all the sensors is a breeze. You can modify each sensor as to how it alarms, when it sends notifications and to chime or not when activated. Running the camera from the app is also super simple. My biggest like about the app, you can set the alarm from any where!! So, if you forget, you can set it or disarm it with ease. It also means you do not have to carry the fob.Overall, very pleased with the system and the app. For the cost and no monthly contract, this will work just fine for my needs and I will expand for another door sensor and camera in the future. This system does not get 5 stars because of the night vision, but as of these past 48 hours, it is a strong 4.5 system!!
For the price I expected a better crafted piece of equipment. The remote is kind of flaky and cheaply made and the fan noise is a little loud. This unit is very similar to the Brightlink 8×8/8×16 HDBaseT/HDMI Matrix Switcher, which I recently returned to another seller due to issues with no picture when the TV was turned on until I changed inputs. Gladly, this unit does not exhibit this problem, though it did become non-responsive after going to sleep and would only wake up on a power cycle. A factory reset resolved this issue. I must say that No Hassle AV International has been extremely prompt to respond to any inquiries. The manual is poorly written and assumes a lot of the user. Someone who is not technically minded and unfamiliar with HDMI protocols may feel overwhelmed. Now the good stuff, the picture is quite good. I would say noticeably better than the old Octava HDMX48CAT 4×8 HDMI CAT6 Matrix Switch which it replaced and I liked very much until outputs began to fail. Having the mirrored HDMI outputs is great and using a single CAT6 cable is better than using two as the Octava did. I can use the extra cable for LAN connections to the smart TVs. I find LAN beats WAN for streaming.
The Lynx series (5000, 5210) set the bar for a good home-installed system. Beware that the different models have different options for landline-vs-wifi-vs-cellular connections and make sure the options you want will work with the panel model. 5210 is probably the most versatile choice. The only thing that is bothersome, is that the red light on the PANIC key on the console is ALWAYS ON, so there is always a “red light” literally, on the panel. Even when there’s nothing wrong. A spot of tape cures that. (Really, Honeywell??) It was disappointing that the system threw a “tamper alert” on installation. Apparently the tamper switch on the cover wasn’t quite aligned properly, and the instructions are rather vague about whether they include which screw which might need to be added into an unmarked untapped post to close that up. A little fidgeting around with the cover and repowering it finally cleared that though. These are generally pretty simple, reliable, flexible. There are a lot of options installation and setup aren’t really “hard” but you’ll need to take some time going over everything. If you are connecting to a central monitoring service, they CAN do a lot of the setup remotely for you, and that’s often well worth the price.
After using the new No Hassle 8×16 8×8 HDR 18GBPS HDBaseT 4K Matrix Switcher V2 (B07MZ4T21Q) for a while now I am pleased with its performance and features. My matrix is connected to 6 displays ranging from 4K 60 Hz HDR to older 1080p models. I am using Cat5e to distribute the HDBaseT and my cable runs range from 30 feet to just over 100 feet. Each Cat5e cable connects through one wall jack without issue, but a direct Cat5e run from matrix to HDBaseT receiver is preferred. My source components include two Roku Ultras and a dated Blu-ray player. The picture obtained on all displays is excellent, better than the picture achieved previously when distributing 1080p component video via a Russound VM1 using the same Cat5e.The matrix responds quickly via web control. The matrix’s fit and finish is excellent. There is attractive machined detail on the face-plate, stylish venting on the right side of the chassis, and two small fans on the left side. Rack ears, IR cables, and an IR remote are included. The matrix has in-built audio de-embedding capability and can send digital audio via RCA/coax and analog audio via 3.5 mm stereo jacks. I tested the analog audio and the audio was crisp and noise free.The matrix runs cool and quietly. I don’t think fan noise is noticeable compared with similar equipment. The HDBaseT receivers run slightly warm to the touch but their cases are all metal and thus help to sink heat away from the components within.When running the Roku Ultra’s “display” auto detection, it identifies the matrix input as 4K 60 Hz HDR and HDCP 2.2 compliant (see image attached). Out of the box the matrix’s EDID settings all default to “4K2K60_444, Stereo Audio 2.0” so be sure to make the appropriate EDID selections for your setup. My Rokus are connected to matrix inputs 2 and 3 and you can see in the images that I have changed the EDID to include HDR.The web UI is quite nice and this is how I am currently controlling the matrix. ASCII commands can also be sent via RS232 or IP. The Web UI is organized into tabs across the top of the page. The General tab shows which inputs, HDMI, and/or HDBaseT outputs are connected. The matrix can also be rebooted, factory reset or powered on/off from here. When “off” the matrix is in standby mode to reduce power consumption (e.g., fans stop running) but it can still be reached via the web to turn it back on remotely. The Control tab provides IN to OUT routing. The Audio tab allows the one to mute or choose which audio is produced from the in-built audio extractors. Audio can be extracted from the selected source or the return channel from a display connected via HDMI or HDBaseT. I’m currently not using the audio return (ARC) functionality and have not tested it. The Receiver tab allows one to control the scaling for each output. Bypass, Auto, and (Down)Scale are provided. I’m using scaling for a couple of 1080p displays and it is working perfectly. The bypass, auto, and scale selections can also be made by pressing a button on a HDBaseT receiver and then that selection is reflected in the matrix’s web UI. Pretty cool.The EDID tab allows one to set the EDID for each matrix input or one can copy the EDID from any HDMI or HDBaseT connected display to any input. There are many pre-set EDID values available in the pull-down menu. The Network tab allows one to either enable DHCP or to set a static network configuration as I have done. Finally, the Upgrade tab allows a firmware update to be loaded from a file. I’m not aware of any firmware updates currently for this model.In summary, while $3999 is certainly not cheap, this matrix is well worth that amount when compared with other high end brands, many of which do not provide the level of control and features that this matrix offers. If you have any questions about the matrix, please leave them in the comments below and I will try my best to answer them. Or you can reach-out to No Hassle via phone or email directly for assistance. They have been very responsive to my questions and place a high priority on customer satisfaction.
I waited over a year to write a review on this matrix switch to ensure it had a decent amount of action. I have been very satisfied with this purchase and probably like most of you, poured over many reviews for many products trying to make the right decision regarding this important piece of equipment.I wanted to update my entire home to run from an AV rack in the basement. Control4 is my main home automation system and the driver for this unit was easy to obtain and install.As you can see from one of the attached images, all of the inputs are being utilized along with a decent amount of the outputs including HMDI, HDBaseT, IR and audio extractors. Some of the runs for the install were quite long, so HDBaseT was a must.The main unit has been rock solid along with the HDBaseT receivers and the audio extractors. I have not had a single issue with the hardware to date.A couple comments which may be relevant regarding your decision.The internal fans that came with the unit were quite loud. The fact that my rack is in the basement helps, but I still have a theater room down there where the noise was too much. I replaced the fans with Noctua fans. An incredible difference and one the manufacturer should consider, if they have not made a change already.Your TV’s need to be 1080P or higher if your source is 1080P or higher. I have an old plasma I cannot seem to part with because the color is still amazing, but it can only handle 720P. I tried separate down scalers to overcome this issue between the HDBaseT receiver and the TV, but without success. I ended up having to dedicate an AppleTV to only output its resolution to 720P. The EDID settings are easy to access and change, but it could not help with this particular situation.Everything else has been perfect. I have not had any picture issues, switching issues or audio issues. When first configuring the unit, I contacted the seller a couple of times and they were very much helpful.I would and have recommended this product to others. Good luck with your decision!
So…I’ve been watching lots of videos of most Youtubers and people who explain features about smart houses and appliances, and almost everyone tend to use this universal IR control. I decided to buy it. In the last 3 days I could say these pros and cons:Pros:-Pretty small, you can put it everywhere you want (as long as you have an outlet close to it, obviously).-It was easy to set up, actually. Once the app detected the control, the setup for my TV, AC and ST box were pretty quick.-The default remotes that appear in the app work pretty well and with the first option you should have it working (except the ST box, who took me up to the 3rd default option to work, but at least I didn’t have to set up all the buttons one by one).-They were rapidly discovered by my Alexa app, and at the beginning they were working great with the on/off commands, volume for the TV, etc.-The voice commands respond almost in no time. I could tell Alexa to turn off my TV and, before she answers “okay”, the TV is already off.Cons:-Channel management is not the “magical solution” if you want to be able to change channels with voice commands (which is what I was hoping for). To do that, I would have to create individual scenes for each channel, then sync them with Alexa and then create routines to change them with voice commands (in my case I only tend to watch around 10-12 channels, but for those who like to watch more than that, it will be kinda annoying to do, and apart from mentioning that Alexa only lets you have 99 routines, so if you would need to have that amount of routines, these ones would bulk you up some space).-In my particular case with the channels, the ST box has the HD channels starting from channel 1002 and further. When I added my favorite channels to the list and tried to test them out with the app remote, it seems the app dials the numbers so quick that some numbers even repeat themselves and you end up getting a different channel than expected. What I had to do was to set up “channels” which were only every single digit from 0 to 9, and I created scenes for each channel with 4 different commands (each corresponding digit), to kinda add up a little delay in the channel dialing. This took me around 20 mins for 12 channels…a little bit awkward.-Could happen that sometimes your Alexa routines would trigger, but the actions regarding the remotes you want to control won’t do what you expect them to do. I wanted to be able to change my TV inputs with certain triggers. At the beginning they started working very well, but last night they weren’t responding at all. I added up some Alexa confirmation phrases to check if it was the routine itself or simply the actions regarding the IR remote and indeed, the IR remote wouldn’t do the actions. I unlinked the skill, signed out of the app, tried to link everything once again and for some reason it was glitchy and it wouldn’t let me sign in and link my account again for around 25 mins (have no idea why) until it decided to work again, and after that the routines were working perfectly…but I’m hoping I don’t have to go over all that process every 2-3 days.-FAQ section is not helpful at all. It doesn’t have a lot of questions and most questions there are about set up stuff (which ironically was my easiest step to do).Overall, I wouldn’t say this thing doesn’t work at all…it does respond, it can be integrated, but it could take some time to set it up as you would like it to work, just like it happened to me.If you want something to just automate your devices’ on/off status or maybe timers, this will work nicely for the price you’re paying. If you would like it to do more complex stuff (especially a bulky channel list), maybe you could save a little more and buy a more reliable one.
I have the RM4Pro now controlling 8 banks of lights (14 sockets) that were previously just controlled with a 433.29 [Mhz] BN-Link remote and 315 [MHz] Westek RF remote. The RM4Pro is also controlling my Sony receiver, Samsung TV, and Samsung DVD player. The IR signal strength is very good, and works in the same room from about 25 feet away and through a metal grate in the cabinet doors. The RF signal strength is also very good, and I control sockets in cabinets and on different floors of my house. The RM4 Pro is very stable on the WiFi network and I have never had it drop or not be found.However, the Broadlink app is not more convenient than a physical remote control, and is less well laid out, and has less button mapping, than the apps that come with my receiver, DVD, Lights, etc. The real improvement is the ultimate goal of controlling the RM4Pro with my smart home assistant. I use G—-e H–m Assistant (“GHA”), one of the two Alexa competitors. And this works pretty well. The switches have to be set up as “bulb” in Broadlink, or GHA won’t recognize them. The control with GHA for the receiver/DVD is basic: on and off. But I really only wanted to control the lights, and the other device on-off control is really “gravy.” If you want to control more, like volume, changing source, etc., you should use the Broadlink app, physical remote, app that came with the device, or set up scenes in Broadlink (then you have to use the “activate scene” terminology in GHA).Con: I accidentally included sub-devices, temperature and humidity, when setting up the RM4Pro, and I cannot find a way to remove them without starting all over. Given how long it took to learn all the remotes and buttons, I actually ordered the sensor cable so that they will be functional rather than have to set everything up again. The sensor and humidity are interesting, in that they confirm my thermostat readings and are more precise (to two decimal points).Note: The RM4Pro cannot control Bluetooth controlled devices, like a PS4 or FireTV; but they do not advertise that they do, and could not do so without cooperation from the manufacturers anyway.Con: If you have a 5 [MHz] and 2.4 [MHz] WiFi broadcasting the same SSID, you have to disable the 5 [MHz] when setting up, or the device won’t connect.Con: I had some trouble getting the RM4 Pro to connect to my WiFi LAN. I tried about 7 times, and, after the Broadlink app connected to the device, it just kept failing when trying to send the SSID and password to the device. I tried in AP mode and smart mode. I unplugged it and re-plugged it several times, and one time and it finally worked. Be persistent and keep resetting the device. Once set up though, it has been rock-solid.Con: This device does not come with a USB power supply. You must supply a USB micro that can put out at least 1 amp. I tried an old supply that put out 0.7 amps, and the device was flaky with this underpowered power supply.Overall, this Broadlink device paired with RF/IR is a much cheaper way to get smart on-off control than buying lots of smart lamp sockets individually. I’m already paying a significant amount to control overhead lights with Lutron’s Caseta hub system as I slowly replace switches for $150 a pop as I get the version with the built-in preset and matching Pico remote and pedestal.Conclusion: I’m actually very happy the RM4 Pro solution the more I use it. Now I am going to buy some of the RM4 Pro’s little brothers, the IR-only remotes, to hit some IR fans in other rooms. Looking at some information on-line, it looks like I’ll get the on-off functionality with GHM easily, and will have to use Broadlink’s scenes for oscillate, speed, etc.2021.06.10 update: Con – No Ethernet over USB support, so must use WiFi.
So, Samsung bought SmartThings are began closing off the platform. So, former employees started a company to many the hub they thought should have been made. It work locally, it supports local LAN devices (with the proper .groovy code), Bridge from other manufacturers, both google and Amazon, could devices, zigbee and ZWave and users could add their own device, app and interface code. The made it use the same .groovy code Samsung it try to slowly disable from ST since they removed it from their newer App. The good news is all the cod people worked on can wok on the Hubitat (LOCALLY) with little of often no modifications which meant it instantly support every device ST does and more but responded without the long delays of the ST and works regardless of you internet connections or a force need to pay a monthly fee like with using Wink or to update or change any setting with the Wink 2. All device can be access via a local browser or via the mobile app. You can also remotely access device via a web site IF you choose. Over the years the added zigbee 3 support move the radios inside the unit and it is now the first hun to support the S2 security protocal for sensors and locks. What is not to like, right. Well, the interface is often not intuitive or even buggy, adding device can be a pain and can often involve going to the web and downloading code even fro devices on their supported list. I was able to get not listed device working easier then many list ones. Some took a minute, some took a day, some took a few days, several took week to get to work. For a device like the MyQ or any LAN expect to spend an evening setting each one up to work like you want. You should some basic programming experience formall but ht nost simplest of setups. I do not have a lot of device but may trcik one like the MyQ, WeMo, a Yahama AVR and gth Logitech Harmony Hub and companion remote. Z-Wave sensors are EASY to add as are any Lytron devices once you learn how to pair the to your bridge and add it to the system. Switches, dimmers, and bulbs can be finicky and sometimes you have to change the device definition after including them. Both GE and Evolve device will need adjusting and the ST code lacks flash actuator for the GE so I used generic Z-wave driver and it works fine. My Evolve is dimmer, it could not even tell it was a switch/dimmer even though it is on the supported list but changing the device type make lots of locations available again but did you notice something I just stated? You CAN change it unlike any other hub. You could tell it a simmer is switch or vice versa. It just changes which function are available. With a Pico remote you can make any remote act as react to only which button is pushed or wait and see if it is also held down which can trigger a different action then if you briefly push it. If you want to do a lot with one remote you can have the same button do more then one thing depending on how you press it. If not use a mode the one sense the button number, this is called fast pico and responds instantly rather then wait to see if you hold the button down or not. This is just the tip of the iceberg, I have the front hallway light come on when that door is opened. If it is dark and have the outside like come on at sunset and off late at night but of the door opens the any lights outside t side of the house automatically o on for a preset duration I set/programmed. Many devices require you use custom attributes or actuators commands. Smoke detectors and sirens, strobes or doorbells fit in the category. As does an AVR, the MyQ or the Lgoitech hub. Bulbs, Dimmers, Switches and sensors are all accessed built-in Actions or conditions and are various scheduling options. Unless you have an App to do it for use all device that use your own code must be added as virtual devices. Ar you still following. If so, this may be your hub. If not just be warned it will take some take and a few headaches and maybe even a shot of booze afterwards once in a while. I have shot several video I will eventually post regarding it quirks and some mistakes to avoid if you are not a programmer. It is very particular about what order you enter in commands (they call them actions) or it will either not work or be several time as hard to do. Once you get this working is does everything I wish my past hubs could do any more. I even use it to fix problems with the crappy design of my Hubitat command designs so now and can control my Samsung TV and ht Yamaha AVR I bought from Amazon during a Black Friday sale. Before I have to use two hubs, the makes both the Wink 2 ans ST completely obsolete. Many users are former ST users and some even connect or link both hubs together. Others left Wink when the added fees. It is very community oriented group and other users will try and help when they can. Zigbee discovery is fine and Z-Wave eventually work but LAN is useless. Fortunately, you can often find code for items like several WeMo ones or the afore mentions MyQ or some AVR units. Some have better support them others. The Yamaha one is complete with zones and sound modes, etc. The Denon one still need some more work. I have not tried the Onkyo one since that is nor on my LAN right now. It Z-wave smoke alarm list is still pretty weak but quire frankly not many exist yet. I do not get what is difficult about hardwired interconnect unit that also broadcast Z-Wave alert for hub to react to but no one makes one.Anyhow, be warned this is not for everyone. It you like to tinker and can understand a simple programming language this might be the hub you have always wanted. It is also an excellent choice for installers since once you learns it quirks and how to do thing it get a lot easier but allow you to set up a complex system for pretty cheap. However for a simple system is it some work since each step involve learning a new skill or what works and what does not. I still have one problem I have no solved not do I know how to address the SHIELD for anything other than talking messages yet. For high demand locations with a lot of device and activity you can even connect multiple hubs. I also need to figure out how to use the Harmony hub with to control lights too.
Update 27-Oct-20: Changing from 2 stars to 4 as the vendor has really spent time effort and communication with me showing real interest to increase compatibility and correct issues. I’ve also learned a bit more about IR remote control – there are a lot of different protocols/techniques used and there is no standard. So it’s very challenging – probably impossible – to be 100% compatible with every IR device. Fortunately, one of the main things I want to be able to control with this looks like they will be able to get working!Update 19-Oct-20: Changing from 1 to 2 stars as the vendor has replied – so far not any fix. Read updates at bottom.Have wasted lot of time with this poorly engineered product, and the bottom line is: It WILL NOT connect to my TP-Link Archer A7 router (2.4ghz wireless).I have tried lots of things, including even disabling wireless security, changing the support for A/B/G/N, etc. The same thing happens every single time: this Broadlink device makes attempt to connect to the router, but it fails. I can see the Broadlink mac address as it connects to the router with 100% signal quality, and it shows in the wireless devices for a second or two, disappears, and will keep repeating the unsuccessful connection attempt.I have a spare older Netgear router, and in my troubleshooting set it up. This Broadlink will connect to it – but it’s not the router I want to use. So, is the problem the TP-Link or this Broadlink? I would have to say it’s the Broadlink because I have never had a problem connecting any wifi device to the TP-Link, including Amazon echo devices, Google home devices, smart plugs, smart thermostats, phones, notebook computers, etc., etc., etc.Extremely disappointed, but not entirely surprised as I look at other reviews. As I see it, there’s something funky about the wifi setup/firmware on this device and it will work with some 2.4ghz routers, but definitely not all. So, even if it works for you, would you want a device that may not work in the future if you change/upgrade your router?UPDATE 1: Was ready to request RMA to send it back, and thought, well maybe I should at least see how it would work if it could connect to my network, so I hooked my old Netgear router up to the Internet, connected my phone and setup the Broadlink device. After it connected and finished the initial setup, it immediately downloaded from the internet new firmware. Aha. So, with that maybe it will connect to the router I actually use? I then put the TPLink back to the net and the Broadlink back to setup mode and….. It now connects to the TPLink router….SO, we have a product that ships with bad firmware that prevents it from connecting to at least some routers/wifi, and the only way to fix it is to connect to a router/wifi and download new firmware! What really needs to happen is the vendor needs to re-flash these things before sending them out as new product….UPDATE 2: After getting the hub on my network, started adding my remotes. No issue with TV, but had immediate issue with my set-top-box which is a Cisco ISB7150 – a ‘cable’ box with DVR provided by Hawaiian Telcom for their ‘cable’ provided by fiber using IP technology. I didn’t find the remote listed by BroadLink, so tried to add it as custom. No matter what I tried, it would not learn a single button. Believe me, I tried and tried and tried. I have 2 remotes that can operate the stb – the one provided by Hawaiian Telcom (URC 2025B1-BB) and my old Logitech Harmony 650 which is perfectly able to learn any of the remote codes and is in the Logitech database. Almost ready to give up, I noticed a BroadLink database listing for: Iptv Cisco! (Under ‘I’ not ‘C’). Well, that worked for the basic function of the stb, but none of the DVR-related keys are programmed, and many of the “less-used” set-top buttons as well are not there – with no success in getting BroadLink to learn any of them.I rec’d the product from Amazon on Sat. BroadLink support is “5×24” no Sat/Sun. But on Monday I did receive an email response from BroadLink to my problems. They acknowledge firmware update can resolve some compatibility issue with wifi (but that’s catch-22 for most people as it requires connecting to a different router before it can be fixed and there’s absolutely no mention of this potential issue anywhere). And, I was told they will change the database listing from ‘Iptv Cisco’ to ‘Cisco Iptv’. And, I was asked more about the remote that can’t be learned as if they are interested in addressing that. Will see what happens….Finally, my ultimate goal is to use this with Alexa, and that does seem to work, but until I can get the STB remote functionality, it’s too limited to be useful.
To start this device is VERY easy to install, being 1 unit instead of 4 separate units makes it that much easier. Setting it up and connecting it to the WiFi, and HomeKit or Smartthings is all simple as well. I like how I can use one of the switches to control a different smart device anywhere else in the house, for example 1 of the 4 switches I replaced with this unit controls my outside like which has a motion sensor and the switch stays on forever, I replaced that with my under cabinet lighting which plugs in to a different smart outlet but made more sense where the switch was located. I don’t have more than 1 of these units, so I can’t vouch for the video intercom and maybe thats where some of the price value goes but as much as I do like this unit I feel it could be cheaper for what it is.
In the wake of Samsung’s acquisition of SmartThings and afterwards their unfortunate neglect of the product, I was forced to look for a new Z-wave hub. I decided to go with Hubitat because it was just about the only one on the market based on the latest Gen 7 Z-wave standard, which promises higher speeds, longer distances, better battery life, and better security. I was forewarned that setting up a Hubitat system is not as easy as with SmartThings, but I dove in anyway.The differences between Hubitat and SmartThings are many, but here are the ones that really matter (IMHO):1. SmartThings is dying, while Hubitat is growing. That’s pretty important. No one seems to be working on the SmartThings app anymore, and the hub is no longer available from Samsung (it’s now only available from Aeotek and it’s a legacy device based on the older Gen 5 technology). In the meantime, Hubitat is obviously a very energetic universe, with nearly twice-weekly updates to the hub firmware since I’ve had it. It’s nice to be in a place that seems to have a future, as SmartThings once did. There is a very active community of Hubitat users too, who are constantly posting tips, tricks, and ideas.2. SmartThings automation depends on the cloud. If you lose internet access in your home, your entire SmartThings automation scheme is DOA until internet is restored. Hubitat, on the other hand, provides local execution of automation, independent from the cloud. You can cut your internet data cable and the automation that has been configured into the Hubitat hub will not be affected (except for any automation that explicitly uses internet services like IFTTT). The resulting Hubitat automation is much faster and more reliable than SmartThings.3. With Hubitat, there is no all-encompassing App for iPhone or Android like there is for SmartThings. Instead, you connect to and configure Hubitat with a browser-based app on your computer or phone. Browser apps are best used on a computer, where there is enough real estate to see everything at once. I can’t imagine trying to configure Hubitat from a phone. There is, however, a simple phone App for Hubitat that allows you to see your system and interact with it after it’s built, but that app does not support any changes in configuration (like adding a new device).4. You can tell Hubitat has been designed by a bunch of coders who have made it very easy for them to expand and maintain. Unfortunately, they don’t seem to have invested one thin dime is the area of “User Experience”. As a result, the configuration of a new Hubitat Hub is like building a house. First you dig up the ground, then you pour the foundation, then you start framing, then you attach the roof, and on and on. Almost nothing is automatic; there is no anticipation of what your next logical action is likely to be. For example, in SmartThings, if you add a water sensor, the SmartThings app is smart enough to realize that you may be interested in getting a notification on your phone that water has been detected, and you are lead by the hand down that path. Hubitat, on the other hand, may recognize a new sensor as being a water sensor but that’s the end of it. You want a display to check sensor status? you’ve got to add the Dashboard app, then add a Dashboard tile (based on templates, at least). You want a notification? You have to add the ‘Notification’ app, then configure a ‘Notifier’ that alerts your phone (if you’ve added your phone to the system, that is) to the message that you want to send under what conditions. Along the way there are myriad drop-down lists, checkboxes, fill-in values, and what-have-you. In the end you will get what SmartThings would have given you in 3 minutes, except the first time with Hubitat will take you 60 minutes. All very logical, but absolutely not user-friendly. It does get easier as you learn and you will be very productive after completing your first automation, bit it takes patience to get there.5. The complication that Hubitat brings to the user experience also provides for some very powerful logic capability that can be incorporated into your device automations. All you have to do is learn the arcane “Rule Machine” app (of course you have to add it first) and you can create logic so complex that no one will ever be able to understand it.6. Hubitat supports more than Z-wave; it also supports Zigbee and a small family of LAN devices. More importantly, it supports cloud ‘devices’ like IFTTT as well as Amazon Echo and Google Home too. Just add the apps…6. A word of caution: The Hubitat universe apparently used to have built in SMS (text message) capability, but this has been removed in recent times. You can get equivalent messages via your phone’s Notification capability. if you still want true SMS capability, you have to add an app that allows you to access a paid SMS service called Twilio. I signed up for this but immediately regretted it because the cost can get out of hand pretty fast, and in the end there was no benefit (for me at least) over and above simple phone notifications, which are free.In summary — Hubitat is, at present, not for everyone. And it will never be for everyone unless and until the Hubitat team gets serious about a comprehensive iPhone/Android app for both configuration and monitoring. Whether they get there is anyone’s guess, but for me it was the best choice here in 2021. I am now officially rooting for their continued success.
I’ve had the “regular” Aqara M1 smart hub as the base for my Aqara smart home system for awhile now, and everything has been great. When this newer M2 hub was finally officially available in the U.S. market, I ordered one because it had one feature I really prefer when it comes to HomeKit hubs – that is, a wired network option. When the M2 hub arrived I was pleased to see that it was about as compact as the M1/M1s hubs – slightly larger in diameter but about 1/3 thinner in thickness. Adding it to my HomeKit setup took less than 30 seconds with the Aqara app, and in no time I had the M2 ready for service. However, when it came time to configuration it took some work.Since I intended on using the M2 as my new main hub, one thing I found a little annoying was that there was no way to manually select which smart hub to connect to for each Aqara accessory (I actually have 3 hubs total in my household spread out for good coverage). Because of this, I had to delete and re-add each Aqara accessory back into the Aqara app to bind them to the new M2 hub. This was a slightly tedious process because I currently have over 20 different accessories; however this gave me the opportunity to rebind each device to the hub with the best connection (as opposed to having all of the Aqara devices bound to one single hub). This let me take advantage of having multiple hubs for good signal for all of the Aqara accessories.Just like with the M1 and M1S hubs, once you have the Aqara devices bound to a hub in the Aqara app, you can then switch over to the Apple Home app for main controls. So far everything seems to be working as intended, though I have yet to try the integrated IR function of the M2 hub.A couple other things of note: first, you get a micro USB cable in the box, but no power supply; I simply used an extra USb charger from one of my iPhones as the power supply and it works fine. Second, the speaker in the M2 hub is not as loud as the M1/M1S hubs. I’m pretty sure this has a lot to do with the design: the M1/M1S hubs are mounted usually in a wall socket, with the unobstructed speaker holes facing outward; however with the M2, since it’s designed to sit on a flat surface, the speaker holes are around the base of the M2, aimed straight down at the table (or shelf, where I have mine). Fortunately as I mentioned earlier, I have more than one huib as part of my HomeKit setup and thankfully when you install the M2, all of the other M1/M1S hubs are synced with it, so if you turn the alarm function on the M2 to alert, all of my Aqara hubs will also make the same alert.So okay – the M2 is slightly more expensive than the M1/M1S, but you get LAN connectivity, you no longer need to find an open wall outlet (the M1/M1S hubs will block both wall plugs where you install them), and it has an IR function. Aside from everything I just said, the M2 is still a good choice to get your smart home started! Even if you’re not starting from scratch, I would say that the M2 hub is also a good addition to an already established Aqara smart home system.
REVISED: Additional CONSA decade and a half ago, to work from home, I had to prove our house had a security system. I did not want something that required a subscription and I found the SkyLink SC-100 basic system. It worked well for our small home, and gave us the peace of mind that, should someone try and break in, we would know about it. Over the years, we more or less maxed out the system.This year, we are in the process of renovating our home; adding a garage, etc., and decided it was time to upgrade the home security system. Enter the SkyLink SK-200!! Wow! Nice, small form factor on the alarm unit. I got it unboxed and set up in no time, replacing the older SC-100 sensors with the new ones.PRO: Works EXCEPTIONALLY WELL through the Android and iOS app! You set up an account through the app and then use the app to set up the hub.PRO: Uses AAA and AA batteries in the sensors. No more special A23 batteries!PRO: Set up the app on all our mobile devices – they all register the sensor activity.PRO: Though the alarm is loud, the mobile apps also tell you when an event has happened with push notifications and banners, and more importantly – WHERE! Which sensor has been fired off! LOVE THIS!! No longer do I have to race to the keypad to see which LED zone light is lit.PRO: Can set the alarm from anywhere in the house; do not need to activate it from the keypad.PRO: The alarm is LOUD, and all the mobile devices with the app running indicate there is something going on and at what sensor.CON: The iOS app is buggy and would not allow me to define the wireless hub (needed for the rest of the mobile devices to connect). I had used an old iPhone to set it up initially, and could not get more than blank alerts on the other devices. I decided to try it again; reset the hub and deleted the app off the iPhone and then install the app on my Android mobile. WORKED GREAT! Through the Android app I was able to define the wireless hub and set that password that all the other mobile systems were then able to use. Now all our devices in the house (iPhones and tablets) can see the SkyLink hub and sensors.CON: About once a month, the hub goes offline. You can tell because the indicator icon on the app turns red. I have to unplug it and using a pin, press the reset button on the bottom of the unit. Drove me CRAZY because it kept telling me that one of our sensors was open (it wasn’t). At 1AM when you want to go to bed, it was not fun having to debug this thing.CON: I really wish there was a more comprehensive owner manual other than the set-up cheat sheet.There is a ton more functionality that I may or may not get around to using, but it’s nice to know that it’s there if and when the time comes.I did not rate tech support because I have not needed to contact them, but other folks reviewing this product said they were great to work with.
First off I want to express how amazing this switch is. It is amazing in terms of what it’s amazing technology can do. I also want to mention that this is EXTREMELY DIFFICULT to install if you don’t have a basic knowledge of electrical work. This took me days of trial and error to get working. The issue was that you need to connect the neutral to not one but both sides of the unit. Then, we start getting into quality control. The switch worked great for about a few months then one of the switches stopped working intermittently which could be resolved by removing and replacing the screen to do a reboot. The issue then advanced to where that light wouldn’t work at all. I contacted brilliant customer support who was extremely helpful and determined that it was the safety plungers that failed. The issue would be resolved by replacing the WHOLE ENTIRE unit (not including the screen). They replaced this at no extra cost. Given how extremely difficult it is to get this thing installed and having to go through that again is ridiculous. As I was putting the screen back on the new unit I also noticed the screen starting to come off of its frame. I’m ignoring that for now. But, for a $450 light switch the issues I experienced are absolutely unacceptable. I would recommend you to buy this if you are into technology but be ready to deal with some issues.
Was super excited to install two of these home control panels into my home…First two panels had plunger issues; when the faceplate is off, the base unit has a plunger for each of the lights (count varies on number of light switches), and I guess it is a known issue that the plungers may fail to make contact thus not allowing the light to work; I called the company and they sent out two new base units. The new units work with no issues thus far.I have read, and my electrician did also; that there can be heat issues and that you need to use a deep box to accommodate all of the wiring and heat load… we went with a 3.5″ deep box (88.9 mm for my European mates). This seems to be doing well.The next issues I have are about value;1) Rather than allow you to choose your color, they make you buy the white version and then allow you to purchase a plastic ($0.50) cover for $25-$30… The base unit is already priced at a premium… this seems egregious.2) I luckily purchased my units in mid 2021…and for the 4-gang (switch) home control panel paid $448 each. Now for BLACK FRIDAY… the unit is $549 but you get a free dimmer switch ($70 retail value) with the panel. Seriously? You raise the price $100 and then offer an additional product that cost you $20 wholesale? Money grab with no added value…stuff like this will take me off the “fanboy” list and make me hesitant to recommend them…Software updates have been easy and the unit is available to my google assistant 95% of the time on the first try… dimming works well with my led lamps…
System came as advertised. Had to watch YouTube to see how to set it up, including Alexa interface to an Echo Show. Camera had slot for micro SD card, but when I slipped the card into the slot, it just slipped in and fell to the interior bottom of the camera – couldn’t get it out. The slot supposed to accept the card was not lined up well with the slot in the plastic exterior. Skylink is sending me a replacement camera (over a week now!) and they gave me instructions on how to retrieve the micro card – but I could not get the camera back together well. Waiting for replacement. The hub works well. The fob is chintzy – but it works – not a great deal of confidence that it will last. The use of “normal” batties (AA, AAA) is a plus. The camera worked really well before I tried to insert the micro SD card. The IFTTH seems to work OK. When system is ARMED, I get good TXT and Email notices on my cell. I could see the area covered by the camera remotely – altogether a nice unit. I am generally pleased
Needed to add some water leak sensors and decided to go with Aqara. So far works good since I have a AC unit upstairs that tends to leak, I can catch it fast. Easy to set up Hub and sensor
I initially did not want to buy this because I already have a SmartThings hub, but the compatible devices to this hub were just too good to ignore. The motion and water sensors are just what I needed in the perfect size and form factor. The cube controller is so slick. SmartThings’ devices are large and clunky and not the aesthetic I want. Then I found out that Aqara devices are compatible with the Mi Home app, which I already have, and I pulled the trigger. But then I found out those cool devices I had delivered were only compatible once the hub was purchased and added as well….. So I relented and bought this hub. Setting the hub up with the Aqara app was easy enough, if a bit jarring due to the loud voice telling you which steps you’ve completed. But pairing it with the Mi Home app was a pure test in patience. It was so stressful that I actually had to take breaks—and I consider myself very apt at setting up smart devices seeing as to my house is full of them from numerous platforms. But this…. This was something else. I couldn’t figure it out. I ended up having to Google a solution and found one that still took four tries to work for me. Once it did, though, I was moving and grooving. I added my sensors easily and was up and running. The hub’s volume can be controlled, which is great, because it’s way too loud for me. I get the alarms should be loud, but that narrating voice; I can hear it from the living room even though the hub is set in the back bedroom. The light is a nice touch. That too can be controlled to act as a nightlight or motion light and the colors can even be changed. It’s palm sized and plugs directly into an outlet which is also nice as it cuts down on cable clutter; just be sure you have enough outlet space to accommodate it because it will cover its neighbor.
The Aqara app is a little buggy. And takes a little to get used to. The push notifications sometimes take a few minutes to come in.For example, if you are in the ‘shield status’ screen it will not update when an alarm happens. You have to exit out of the screen and come back into it to see current status. Sometimes the alarm notification will come in AFTER you have stopped the ‘away alert’. The ‘24×7 alert is running’ makes the Alert System a little less intuitive. As once you start it, it always runs. But you can edit it, and sometimes get the screen confused and it will show ‘24×7 alert’ as not running (gray icon).The sensor naming is also a little bit confusing. You can put a sensor in a particular room, but then in some screens it will not give you the details of which particular ‘leak detector’ you are working with. There seems to be 3 levels to the sensor naming. I was naming sensors with their location. Like basement leak sensor. But then on the screen with all the cards showing status, you have ‘basement’ and ‘basement leak …’, but then in another screen it may say leak sensor 3. And you have to know the ‘basement leak’ is just the name cut off and not that you have a leak.
I literally tried for HOURS to get this thing to connect, and I am quite good at computer networking. I have NO idea what this thing needed, I tried everything from mDNS forwarding to static firewall rules, plugging it in, etc. Nothing. Never connected. I finally got it (first try) using BLUETOOTH. Yeah, its buried in chinese in their app.Instructions are as follows:1. In the Aqara app after you select the device to add (its asking you about a blinking light) – in the upper right is a little WiFi icon, tap this.2. I know its in Chinese, but that second option must say Bluetooth. Click it.3. Now the icon in the upper right should be a bluetooth icon and you can proceed as you’d expect.I was about to return it too.
Good, not great. Loses connection every once in a while. I also got a dead one but luckily after proving it didn’t work 10 ways to Sunday support sent a new one out so I’m happy about that. The Alexa integration doesn’t work for sending voice notifications and it’s useless but the system by itself and in it’s app works great.I use the light to tell my family I’m on calls and use it as a night light for the kids, so cool.I have the button and door sensors. They work flawless as long as the hub doesn’t lose connection.The app is a little weird but setup is easy once you get the hang of it.Not the most intuitive system but the size of the sensors is nice and small and when I eventually get home assistant running this should be a great starter set for sensors.I’d buy more, but only from Amazon or the Aqara store since I had issues with their hub.
I bought this item based on a recommendation from a TikTok video, and I’m impressed! I have several devices in my home that use regular infrared remote controls to operate, and this device consolidates all of them and links them to my Google Home. It connects to your Wi-Fi, so now with just my voice, I can control my fans and directv receiver that are not integrated with smart platforms already. You can even set up other devices with a little bit of hacking and how-to, just make sure they have an IR sensor and are within sight of this little guy. Love it!
Just got started but so far this Hubitat hub solved the problems I was having dealing with being caught between my Smartthings automations no longer working due to the platform changes and the Hue bridge strictly constraining the functionality of any accessory that’s not a light – in this case their outdoor motion sensors. In short, the Hubitat hub let me setup in five minutes all the automation between Hue motion sensors and Ewelink wireless relays that had recently stopped working on the Smartthings hub and that were not allowed on the Hue hub. There are some oddly unintuitive things to get past (like in order to add a new rule you need to add a new “app”) and I still haven’t quite figured out the Dashboard customization thing, which does not seem to make it easy to add all your devices after the first time you create it. However I’m extremely pleased that this hub just works, plus processes locally. I think there will be plenty of hurdles with figuring out how to do more advanced automations or use more devices since this seems like a much more developer-focused system, which is fine for me but should be understood by prospective buyers. I’m thrilled that this hub solved the problems I had with doing the automation that other hubs either recently stopped doing or wouldn’t let me do in the first place.
UPDATE: The company was very understanding and responsive, they sent replacement units very quickly and they work perfectly now! Great product and great support from company, will definitely be purchasing more sensors from Aqara.I purchased 3 of these sensors in a package, a very good deal… until I realized two of the three do not work. Every time the door opens / closes I get between 3 -6 notifications saying the door has opened and closed in rapid succession, Sometimes the final status of the sensor is also incorrect. I installed all the sensors the at the same spacing and distance, but two of them have this issue making them unusable.I was not able to get a replacement from Amazon as I was hoping the issue would go away, and now I am a few days out of the replacement window. I am waiting for Aqara to reply to my replacement request. Will update the review once I get a replacement and make sure they are working!
It’s a shame this is zigbee but will not work with other hubs. I tried all the tricks and custom code but could not get this to work with my Hubitat. I broke down and bought an Aqara hub and the switch works great. I know the description states it will only work with an Aqara hub, but I’m still knocking off a star because it should work with others. Many other brands claim their devices will only work with their hubs but they work just fine with others. Sadly, this is not the case for the Aqara dual-gang switch. It does work flawlessly with an Aqara hub.
A veces le hablas Alexa y la cortina no responde
I am happy with these door/window sensors. The two pieces need to be installed a bit closer together than VOCOlinc sensors. I put one of these on a laundry closet with a pull-out accordion type door. There is a bit of a gap between doors, so I had to install one of the pieces hanging off the door just a bit. They are simple to install and no problems maintaining connection. Using with Aqara G2H camera hubs.
This definitely was a purchase I don’t regret getting and I bought two, one for my parents and one for me to control our air conditioner systems and these little pieces of tech work perfectly with being able to control our air conditioners. Overall if you want to control something remotely then these little guys are your best bet because there cheap and even come with a wall mount so you can mount this little sucker to the wall lol 😂.