Top 10 best Led Headlights 2022 According to experts

The lights work great and look great once installed. It is not technically hard to replace the factory OEM lights with these LED lights. I wish I had made a video to share on YouTube because there are none in good detail to show or explain the process, but I did not make one. So, I’ll try to give an explanation of it… for someone with small hands, this task would be quick and easy for the Nissan Juke, but for someone like myself who wears at least a size X-Large gloves it was not easy to get my hands into the very tight spaces for changing the lights. And, I was only able to get 2 to 3 fingers through the housing holes to reach the lights, but I managed to complete the task. The task is the same for both the dim and the bright lights… You do not have to remove any parts of the front end (bumper, grill, ECT) like you do on some vehicle types and you do not have to remove the headlight housing. As you look under the hood, look down to where you will see the back of the plastic headlight housing. There you will see two large rubber caps which are about 3″ diameter each. The dim light will be the rubber cap which is the higher one and directly behind where that dim light is positioned in the headlight housing. The rubber cap for the bright light will be a hair lower and angled towards the engine. Each rubber cap pulls off of the housing easily and will easily push back onto the housing once you are finished. The dim light is easier to reach than the bright light due to the tight space and the angle of the housing hole for the bright light. So, I started with the easy one (dim light) first. Reach inside the headlight housing hole and you will feel the wiring harness for the light. Do NOT pull on the wires! Connected to those wires you will feel the back of the light. Leave the wiring harness connected for now. The wires will pull out with the bulb once you pull it from the housing. Grip the back of the light bulb firmly with your fingers and twist counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn. Do NOT pull or push on the back of the light bulb at an angle! Twist it evenly and you will feel the light loosen from its locked position. Once it is lose, guide it out of its position straight back towards the back of the car. Once it is completely out of it’s position, then you can easily pull the light bulb out of the housing with the wires still attached. The wiring harness is short, so you will have to hold it close to the housing hole. Now you will look at the wire connection of the bulb. You will see a small tab which you will press as you easily pull the wire connection from the bulb. If it does not separate easily, then you are not pressing the tab enough to release it from the locking notch on the bulb. Once you have disconnected the old bulb, set the bulb aside and do NOT let the wiring harness fall back into the housing. If the wiring harness falls back into the housing, you may have a heck of a time getting it back out again as it may be hard to reach without the aid of a small claw grabbing tool which I keep in my tool box. Now to connect the LED light, avoid touching the several tiny LEDs. The LED light will connect only one way, so you won’t get it wrong. Align the small locking notch on the light wire with the locking tab on the wiring harness and slide them together until the tab clicks as it locks onto the small notch. Before you put the new light into the headlight housing turn on the headlights for only a few seconds to make sure the new LED light is working properly. If working, turn off headlights and insert the new light into the housing the exact opposite of what you did when removing the old light. As you insert the light into the housing also guide wiring harness and light wire into the housing, but be careful not to let the wires get into the hole of the light’s position hole. Again, be careful to not touch the small LEDs AND be careful to not scrape the small LEDs against anything as you’re inserting the LED light into the housing or into it’s position hole. Once you have the light inside the housing and inserting it into it’s locking position hole, make sure that you properly lineup the locking notches (notice that one of the 3 notches is smaller than the other 2) of the light with the notch slots of the light position inside the housing. Once you are sure it is lined up properly and is straight, firmly push the light straight into it’s position (towards the front of the car) even further as you twist it clockwise to lock the light into it’s position. MAKE SURE that you do NOT push the light at an angle as you’re trying to lock it in! Once the light is properly secured into it’s position try giving it a gentle wiggle and pull to make for sure that it is locked into it’s position properly. Now turn the headlights on again for another quick check to make sure the new light is still working. If all is good, make sure all of the wiring is inside the housing as it will just rest there inside the housing. You can now press the rubber cap securely back onto the hole at the back of the housing. This process is the same for dim and bright lights on both left and right sides. If you are replacing both the dim and the bright lights, you will notice they are designed differently, so make sure you’re using the correct type when installing the new light. There is no left or right bulb. If you’re changing out the bright lights, when you turn on the headlights to test them, make sure your brights are actually turned on to the bright headlights position on the driver’s controls. Good luck and remember that when changing the bright light, it will be more difficult than the dim light (mainly when trying lock in the light into it’s position), but it can be done. To aid you in this task you might need a small mirror which you can adjust the angle and a flashlight, so that if need be you can shine the light onto the mirror as you look into the housing to see what you’re trying to do, but you will not be able to look with the mirror at the same time your hand or fingers is/are reaching into the housing hole.

I’ve only had the Fahren H4/HB2/9003 LED bulbs installed in my 2000 Honda Civic LX for a about one week. I previously had Philips Crystal Ultra Bright halogen bulbs installed, that I also liked. Very bright and great color.Here are a few observations so far:It appears that the Fahren LED bulbs might be brighter yet than the Philips halogens. Interestingly to me, with both bulbs (Philips & Fahren) I never need to engage high beams to illuminate highway signs at night. The low beams are plenty bright enough for that. With both bulbs. Could be the way my headlights are adjusted, but it works well.The Philips high beams appear to have been angled differently than these Fahrens. I never thought to adjust them, as they seemed well collimated. But when I engaged the high beams on the Philips, it made highway signs glare. I didn’t think to adjust the Philips, but I think it is possible. And sometimes oncoming drivers would flash their high beams when I drove with my Philips high beams engaged, which I often did to improve nighttime vision. Especially in the rain.Which brings up the potential issue of hazing on 20-yr.-old polycarbonate headlight lenses, and that factor influencing collimation and ideal road illumination. I liked the Philips, but felt they were deficient in the rain at night. Moisture in the air both reflects and refracts light, diminishing collimation of headlight beams and illumination, vision.I think the Fahrens are better in this circumstance. And here’s another reason why:While the low-beam setting is actually a pretty sufficient combined low/high beam pattern, the high-beam setting actually appears to increase the near-field (low-beam) illumination of the immediate near-field road. And beyond, for a decent distance. I think this helps very much to increase visibility and security at night. And even with both low- and high-beams on it appears they do not blind oncoming drivers at night. Quite a good thing. They appear to be well collimated in this way, and I appreciate the ability to use both beams as I need to.The real issue for me is night driving in the rain. I liked the Philips Ultra Crystal halogens, but they left me without adequate vision at night in the rain. Perhaps an adjustment would have helped. I think the Fahrens LEDs are better. In large part because of that useful high-beam setting. In good weather, they are very good.Which leads me to consider new headlight lenses to achieve maximum benefit. My lenses have been sanded and buffed at least once 3 years ago, the car in very good shape for its age. So the lenses are not terribly hazed, but there is definitely some. Likely new lenses would improve any bulbs, but they might make the Fahrens even better.The other consideration is ‘adjustment’ of the bulbs’ collimation. Another great thing about the Fahrens is the ease of adjustment by the circular ring around the outside of the bulb housing. Very easy to adjust. And I haven’t tried that yet, but think I will to experiment with the illumination pattern.I think the Philips might have benefited from such adjustment also. Though, except for performance in the rain, I thought they were fine bulbs. Lasted me just shy of 3 years when the driver’s side low-beam went out. Could still drive with high-beam engaged, and didn’t seem to bother most oncoming drivers.I am keeping the Fahrens. Because they are bright, clear, well-collimated and can be used with both low- and high-beams on, if needed. And I like that addit’l near-field illumination. I can’t say if the pattern will be exactly the same on your auto, but on a 2000 Honda Civic LX they likely will be. And, unlike one purchaser, who apparently needed a CanBUS added to make the bulbs work on his 2000 Honda Civic LX, I didn’t require this. The bulbs work just fine and have from the start. Which leads me to think something in his electrical system is not exactly right. Weak alternator/regulator? Something in the wiring changed?In conclusion, after a lengthy report, I should add that, after registering my new Fahren LED bulbs with customer service I was, as promised, provided an Addit’l One Year Warranty, making it a 2-Year Warranty now. Pretty good, I’d say.I had a lot of questions for customer service before installing these bulbs and I have to say that they were always prompt in responding. And helpful in answering. It’s always a pleasant experience to encounter Good Customer Service. We all know what the opposite is like. I believe this is a quality product. It’s great that Customer Service appears to be of similar quality. They even offered me a 99% Discount on the CanBUS if I needed it. Very generous of them. Glad I didn’t need itI’ll try to report back if I have further observations to make. In the meantime, I might see about adjusting the bulbs (easy, as previously described). And see about New Headlight Lenses.The troubling issue with Replacement Lenses is the problem with headlight collimation ‘adjusters’ that appear to be present in photos of part, but end up not working upon installation. And if they are not aligned, the new lenses are useless. That, or other issues. Though some people have had good luck.These are good, bright LED bulbs. And the installation for me was very easy. Great that they are easily adjustable, too. And if you decide you don’t want to keep them, you have a generous 30-day window to return them. Pretty good deal. And so far, I like these bulbs very much. I’ll like them even more if they last 50K hours. Then, they’ll be extremely cost effective.*Update: I did in fact need a CanBUS unit, but Fahren’s unit did NOT work at all. Get the alternative for a little more money, which Fahren will help defray cost of to make headlight bulbs work.I needed the CanBUS unit in order to get the high-beams to work. Only the low-beams worked without the CanBUS. Definitely worth the cost of the CanBUS to get the high-beams to work. And easy to install the CanBUS.

2010 Mazda Miata – Brights – Works great but you need to add another item.So I converted the regular headlights and fog lights to LED as well as others. I had a little trouble finding the LED for the brights. This one works fine. However if you do not want the blue icon on your dash for the brights to be mostly lit when you have your headlights on without the brights you need this item too:Xprite LED Headlight Canbus Anti-Flicker Harness| Bulbs Resistor Decoder Error Free Conversion Kit for H8 H9 H11 (1 Pair)https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SGC4767?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsI think in this case for the 2010 Mazda Miata its the resister part that is needed.I put these in today, 11/02/2022, and now the blue icon on my dash for the brights is only on when the brights are on.It was easy to install too.

Trying not to be long winded but I have important info regarding this product. This is part of another review I wrote regarding the fog lights I installed on my 2016 F-150 little more than a year ago. I also want to report that I keep my truck in near impeccable condition and I’m very particular about the upgrades.First I want to report that these replacement headlight bulbs are very bright and very white light. Properly installed you won’t need anything brighter. I have night blindness and in combination with the new fog lights I can see everything clearly including those reflective road signs which I used to have difficulty reading, but not now. Even the daytime driving lights are much brighter. If drivers can’t see you coming they are blind.In saying that, now the negative comments and recommendations. I have strong mechanical abilities and have been working on cars more than 50 years. I read other reviews and watched YouTube before buying and installing these lights. In my opinion this was not the easy installation project others described. Maybe on vehicles that you can remove the entire headlamp fixture it might be easy but on my truck I found a difficult getting access behind the light fixtures which is the best and only feasible way. So, pulling the inner fender cover out of the way enough room for you hands to access the back of the headlight fixtures is challenging. Pulling the inner fender cover over the bolt tab at the top of the fender that is part of the challenge. Patience is key. Then removing the rubber boot behind each bulb when you only have enough room to squeeze one hand in there is no fun. Remember those boots must be reinstalled. YouTube claims you can do this job on an F-150 without removing the tire. Maybe if your truck is on a high lift, but on the ground with a floor jack I removed the front tires. It was much easier. One discrepancy, I was confused about the enclosed instructions that said to remove the bulb seal and attach it to the back of the light fixture before installing the bulb. I didn’t understand the reason for this. I didn’t do this because if you drop this seal between the the back of the light fixture and the the fixture housing you will have to remove the light fixture to retrieve it. Considering the there is no room to work, the bulbs installed fine, but they must be oriented correctly. The wire should be at 12 o’clock. The attached transformer fits between the light fixtures and the housing. Remember to reinstall the boots to keep the bulbs dry. I installed new fog lights at the same time which I highly recommend doing so all your lights match brightness and color. This added another hour or so to this upgrade. I adjusted the all the lights at night behind a local grocery store having a plain flat wall. Proper adjustment is required after installation for proper performance without blinding oncoming vehicles. I have never been high beamed by another driver yet. Although I found this upgrade more of a job than planned it was clearly well worth the effort and the price. My truck like a different vehicle.If you don’t have good mechanical skills and experience pay someone else to do it for you.

So far so good. I put these into my 2011 Honda CRV. The installaion was farily easy but I had to take the fuse box off the holder in order to get the light into the driver’s side fixture. The lights are definitely brighter than the original halogens and the beam pattern looks a lot better. For the installation. The directions say to separate the lights from the mount, but I found it easier to put the entire assembly into the fixture, then remove the bulb to put the rubber gasket back in place.There were no issues with errors on my dashboard, just plugged them right in.I will update if anything goes wrong.

After being skeptical of the price. These are a huge upgrade. Been told they are very bright. Very easy install. Even after getting the best halogen lights I can get. These lights are way better. I installed fog lights hoping for better lighting. But with these the fog lights are weak. These shine clear and very far. Doing a lot of night driving and on some days 20 hours in my car I’m very impressed and happy with spending a little more. Very happy with this upgrade. Would definitely buy again.

Dec 22′ – Replaced factory driving light bulbs with these #H11 LED Beamtech bulbs and the improved lighting is so impressive I had to write this review. The light is a true white and the improved coverage aiming out toward the shoulder of the road is so dramatic I had to order the #9012 LED bulbs to replace the standard headlight bulbs as well. I drive a lot of miles in the dark on back roads and these will certainly improve my vision and help point out deer and other animals in the darkness of night. The project to replace these on my 2015 Dart was not easy, but this is not any fault to Beamtech. It was worth the extra work to get these in my car!! Auto makers, stop designing cars that require so much work to replace a simple headlight as these are items that will need to be replaced at some point. Beamtech rocks!*1/19/23* UPDATE ON 9012 HEADLIGHTS – They installed great, super happy with improved light but now get “Headlight out” error code as the LED’s draw less volts than OEM bulbs. The fix to correct is installing in-line resistors but on the 15′ Dart they really do not have the needed room for these resistors that get hot and cannot touch plastic parts or wires so need to “rig” up a heat shield to protect plastic and other wires near headlight sockets- major pain but after seeing the improved lighting, I need to make it work so I can use the LED bulbs. Guessing my space issue is not something you will deal with unless you have a 2015 Dart.

These lights are everything advertised. They are easy to install they are significantly brighter than the halogen bulbs that were in our Jeep and the price was good. Overall very happy with this upgrade

This fits well on my 2015 Toyota Camry with no flickering or error codes. And I didn’t have to adjust my low beams since they produced the same beam pattern as my halogens. And they were very bright. It would have been nicer though if the color was a little warmer.

Installed on my 2020 F250 XLT – A great upgrade from the stock bulbs. Install is straight forward and no issues with running lights, flickering or anything else. The low beams are great, very bright without blinding the opposing driver. The high beams are really good but could be a little brighter. Maybe when comparing to the low beams, I was expecting something different. There may be products out there that may have more intense high beams, but these are really good. There are many reviews about this product on Amazon that give details on the install and many good pointers and trouble shooting recommendations, I would suggest taking the time to read some reviews and watch some videos before moving forward with the install. Be Safe!